Do i need a new HEAD????

[azlanos]

im back with the same problem again, valve noise after belt water pump change, now the first time i did the belt i missaligned it by 1 or 2 teeth and started the car, valve noise, its sounds like valve to piston contact,

i realigned the belt. look at the pics and did a compression test today

i got #1 140 #2 150 #3 130 # 4 163 on a cold engine 5 cranks
last time ( 3 days ago) i did a compression test i got
#1 160psi
#2 155 psi
#3 155 psi
#4 150 psi
cold engine 6 cranks


do i need a new head now, belt is tentioned as described in the how to but i cant get the cams to align in a straight line look at the pic

[Tiletrader]

I got the same problem only I am not brave enough to start the car- Got a new head sittin on it--I think when I do force the issue one of the valve is partially opened/closed and is dieing to move one way or another--I have read till my eyes bleed and have yet seen this issue addressed yet. I plan on having someone just hold the SOB with a fricken 17mm socket until I can tighten the belt. I am presently waiting on one of those water pump tools I ordered from overseas-- the only place I can findem cheap. But unless I can line everything up perfect--the key aint turnin. I don't care if I die of old age first.

I really don't think you have bent valves because you wouldn't be pullin numbers like these. But if its not perfect please don't start it-- I know those DOHC engines have an extremely low tolerance to anything but perfection.

Looks like you are having issues on the exhaust cam which is basicaaly the same thing I am experiencing on the intake side.

Maybe one of the Guys that have been there will jump in and help us out. I'm just in it for the challenge--I mean it is very important to me to get this Alien machine runnn--but if I don't, I'll just throw some charcoal in it and make a BBQ grill out of it--LOL Just kidding as I got some kids cheering me on as I continue to try to fix their only hope of transportation for school this fall.

Help Techs!!!

im back with the same problem again, valve noise after belt water pump change, now the first time i did the belt i missaligned it by 1 or 2 teeth and started the car, valve noise, its sounds like valve to piston contact,

i realigned the belt. look at the pics and did a compression test today

i got #1 140 #2 150 #3 130 # 4 163 on a cold engine 5 cranks
last time ( 3 days ago) i did a compression test i got
#1 160psi
#2 155 psi
#3 155 psi
#4 150 psi
cold engine 6 cranks


do i need a new head now, belt is tentioned as described in the how to but i cant get the cams to align in a straight line look at the pic

[Nubira2.2]

If you have valve to piston contact you may have some bent valves
That will cause the lower compression

[MMamdouh]

i don't think those compression numbers are bad at all... they are pretty consistent... and yes the intake shaft will keep on going off the mark due to a a partially open valve... an extra per of hands is always useful in this situation

for the current miss alignment you pictured... i think you need to slack the water pump, turn both cams anti clock wise till they are dead aligned, adjust the crank shaft gear to be in correct position, re tension the water pump till the tensioner is in the correct position

MMamdouh

[Nubira2.2]

3 days ago most recent difference
#1 160psi 140psi -20psi not good
#2 155 psi 150psi -5psi ok
#3 155 psi 130psi -25psi not good
#4 150 psi 163psi +13psi more than before weird

Thats what i think

[azlanos]

thanks guys for your help,

i did find the compression numbers wierd too, and i dont know why that happened, maybe bacause i took the belt off and put it on again and did the compression test again!!!

ans for what MM said, i will try to do that and see what happens, is the crank mark not aligned right??? its with the little notch on the bottom or should i make it at 6 oclock? is the tension mark ok?

[Daniel]

Your crank mark is off.
Must look like this:

IMG_0275-1.JPG

This will not help for the valve noise. If I were you I would remove the valve cover and look for no gap between cam lobes and hydraulic pushers while hand rotating engine with belt correctly in place.

Another method to check non sealed valves is to push compressed air trough plug hole whith valves closed. Don't allow engine to be turned by compressed air. Watch for air leak noise from intake or exhaust manifold.

Edit: BTW do you well take compressions with wide open throttle?

[azlanos]

BTW i still havent got the lanos running, after starting the car, i still hear loud ticking noise, real loud, so i think i bent some valves.
im going to get another head and put it on, but i still dont understand the timing belt installation... my old Mitsu Galant timing belt was so easy...

anyways .. should i do this
step one line up the marks intake cam does not stay at 3 oclock, do i use a wrench to keep it at 3 oclock?
hold the intake with a wrench at 3 oclock and work my way clockwise, put belt on all the way, marks should be 3 9 and 6 oclock???????
then tention the belt ( top notch on tentioner) this will cause the marks to move, is that ok? rotate the engine using crank bolt , loosen water pump, rotate anti clockwise to lower notch, then what, marks will align,

im having a hard time doing this , please if you can help tell me step by step, this timing belt is making me feel real dumb.

How is the crank Off? its a hair off 6 oclock, is that ok, the notch on the back plate is a hair off 6 oclock, should i keep the crank at 6 oclock not the notch

[/quote]

[Daniel]

Once you have fixed the ticking noise...

step one line up the marks intake cam does not stay at 3 oclock, do i use a wrench to keep it at 3 oclock?

You may use a specific immobilisation tool to hold both camgears in place.
Or two whrenches on camgear's bolts so wrenches are crossed and clamped in place.
I didn't use any.

...put belt on all the way,...

starting at crankshaft and working anti-clockwise...

...marks should be 3 9 and 6 oclock???????

...and near 6 oclock on the notch

Set first tension by rotating water pump
Remove immobilisation tool(s)
Rotate cranckshaft clockwise by hand two full turns
Control timing marks
Set final tension by rotating water pump
Recheck timing marks after rotating crankshaft again.

Here is a technical bulletin from Gates
http://www.gates.com/europe/file_displa ... 419XS1.pdf

BTW if you loosen water pump bolts too far the water pump can move radialy and thus reduce tension on timing belt. Setting pointer in this situation can lead to unaligned pointer when bolts are tightened again.

[azlanos]

thanks to everyone who helped.,\

i found out what was wrong, nothing wrong with the head, valves or timing, i did the timing right from the begining,

now what happend when i took the cover to get to the water pump i bent the cover a little, when i put everything back and started the car the cover behind the front cam was hitting the metal cover and creating a loud ticking noise, like a piston hitting a valve, i was almost about to pull the head too, but i didnt thing i had to pull the head since i had good compression, so i bent the cover back and started it , it started great and ran good,

so i had no problem from the begining and that cover cost me a month of headace, good thing this want my daily driver...


thanks again every one

[Daniel]

Glad you have sorted this one!
So that was as easy as for the 2000 mitsubishi galant

Congrats,

[azlanos]

lol. i did it so many times, now i can do the lanos timing belt and water pump in less than 2 hours,,,
im glad i didnt pull the head off