Hi There.
My cambelt recently broke and I want to take out the valves to see how many has been damaged.
The problem is that I have no idea on how to take out the valves.
Can some one please HELP!!!!!!
Daewoo lanos 1.6 sx 1998 valves
Moderators: daewoomofo, Moderators Group
Re: Daewoo lanos 1.6 sx 1998 valves
did you take the head off the block already??
MMamdouh
MMamdouh
Driving is the utmost fun you can have with your pants on!
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
Re: Daewoo lanos 1.6 sx 1998 valves
hi.. Yes.. i have done all of that.. the head is of and the cams are out.
i just have no idea on how to take the valves out.
i just have no idea on how to take the valves out.
Re: Daewoo lanos 1.6 sx 1998 valves
their is this special tool for valve removal... it compress the valve spring to allow for the small locks to fall off and spring released
my mechanic uses a suitable size socket and put it on top of the spring and bank the socket with a hammer to compress the spring and release the locks... no idea how the hell does he put the locks back given the above procedure
MMamdouh
my mechanic uses a suitable size socket and put it on top of the spring and bank the socket with a hammer to compress the spring and release the locks... no idea how the hell does he put the locks back given the above procedure
MMamdouh
Driving is the utmost fun you can have with your pants on!
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
Re: Daewoo lanos 1.6 sx 1998 valves
if its the same as a 97 nubira 1.6 the valves sit abot 2 or 3 cm in the head, i used a large G clamp, and modified a 22mm socket, (deep socket).
first placed the socket in the lifter hole the valve is in.
tapped a small rubber pad to the swivel foot on G clamp (just for a little protection on the valve).
used clamp on socket and compressed the spring. mark the socket with pen at the compressed position, no lower than where the lifters go in- as you use this as a guide when cutting a channel in the socket, and i didnt want the cut section to go into the lifter guide in case it rubbed and damaged the surface.
loosen G-clamp, place socket in a vice and cut down the line to about 50% of the sockets width. Now do the same but 4 cm higher, Thats the easy part trying to cut the sides out was tricky, i cut 45 degree from left side bottom cut to right side top cut. and then again the other side. The socket was tough-tried smashing the area i cut but wouldnt work drilled a large hole where the 45 degree cuts cross over. then hacksawed about 4 more horizontal cuts.
bashed it with hammer and punch and finally they broke off.
could do it with an angle grinder but hacksaw worked well. Also buy a cheap socket as they are usually weaker and easier to cut.
file the rough edges and now you have a window to get to the valve collets.
I then driiled a hole on the g clamp where the socket was going to be attached- tapped it and bolted the socket to it. (didnt like the idea of the socket slipping off and hitting my head).
wrapped about 3 turns of duct tape to the socket to help protect the lifter surface.
Works like a dream- easy to take collets out. to get them in flatten the ends of 2 -3 mm thick wire.
you need to bend 1 end about 45 degrees, the other at about 20.
place a little grease on the inside of the collet and a little on the flattened part of the wire which you stick the collet to.
so when replacing the valves - and having them compressed all the way, you patiently attempt to stick the collet half, on 1 side of the stem low down through the window, it may take a little experimentation to get it right because the valve sits lower than the window height, but just change the angles on the wire to suit what youre doing, and never use too much grease, you cant see where the first collet half is and keep knocking it off with the second.
Once both collet halves are on slowly loosen the clamp
45 degees and 20 worked well for me as i used the 45 degree end for one collet half and 20 degrees on the other
Also use a torch or adjustable light, cant see crap looking through the window.
john.
first placed the socket in the lifter hole the valve is in.
tapped a small rubber pad to the swivel foot on G clamp (just for a little protection on the valve).
used clamp on socket and compressed the spring. mark the socket with pen at the compressed position, no lower than where the lifters go in- as you use this as a guide when cutting a channel in the socket, and i didnt want the cut section to go into the lifter guide in case it rubbed and damaged the surface.
loosen G-clamp, place socket in a vice and cut down the line to about 50% of the sockets width. Now do the same but 4 cm higher, Thats the easy part trying to cut the sides out was tricky, i cut 45 degree from left side bottom cut to right side top cut. and then again the other side. The socket was tough-tried smashing the area i cut but wouldnt work drilled a large hole where the 45 degree cuts cross over. then hacksawed about 4 more horizontal cuts.
bashed it with hammer and punch and finally they broke off.
could do it with an angle grinder but hacksaw worked well. Also buy a cheap socket as they are usually weaker and easier to cut.
file the rough edges and now you have a window to get to the valve collets.
I then driiled a hole on the g clamp where the socket was going to be attached- tapped it and bolted the socket to it. (didnt like the idea of the socket slipping off and hitting my head).
wrapped about 3 turns of duct tape to the socket to help protect the lifter surface.
Works like a dream- easy to take collets out. to get them in flatten the ends of 2 -3 mm thick wire.
you need to bend 1 end about 45 degrees, the other at about 20.
place a little grease on the inside of the collet and a little on the flattened part of the wire which you stick the collet to.
so when replacing the valves - and having them compressed all the way, you patiently attempt to stick the collet half, on 1 side of the stem low down through the window, it may take a little experimentation to get it right because the valve sits lower than the window height, but just change the angles on the wire to suit what youre doing, and never use too much grease, you cant see where the first collet half is and keep knocking it off with the second.
Once both collet halves are on slowly loosen the clamp
45 degees and 20 worked well for me as i used the 45 degree end for one collet half and 20 degrees on the other
Also use a torch or adjustable light, cant see crap looking through the window.
john.
97 nubira 1.6 dohc