Yet Another Timing Belt Change question

[Ali]

I just got a 2000 Daewoo Leganza (2.2 engine) that runs pretty much perfect, but based on the condition of the oil and transmission fluid, I had the hunch that the previous owners haven't kept up on the maintenance. After I've got them changed (as well as spark plugs and brake pads), I've put the timing belt replacement as my #1 priority. I've got the service manual of the car, but it tells me I need the engine lift support and to remove an engine mounting bracket. I don't have an engine lift support (nor could I get one), how would I support the engine after I remove the mounting bracket? Do I need to do that in the first place?

Also, one more question. When I was changing the spark plugs, some had fresh oil on the treads. Cylinder 4 spark plug was completely covered in fresh oil (I didn't see any burnt oil on the electrode), as well as the plug wire. I've researched a little bit and it sounds to me that the valve cover gasket need to be replaced. After I replaced the plug, the exhaust let out a lot of smoke but none came out eventually (oil leaked into the cylinder and burnt it off?). Should I just assume it's just the valve cover gasket and just replace that?

Thanks!

EDIT: if you guys were wondering, the car has 68k miles on it, and I got it for $1850 + TTL. The whole timing belt thing is scaring the crap out of me.

[nubira88]

Hey and welcome to the daewoo family lol... to support you engine place a jack and a peice of fence pailing or similar under the engine and support it up a lil then remove the engine mount. adjust your jack up and down to assist in the removal.. a scissor jack works great such as the on in the boot... remove the front wheel so 2 jacks is need or support stand. i have a nubira 1 with the 1.6 so mine may be different but this should work........ good luck with the T.belt get a good kit with the idler and auto tension wheels and a new water pump make sure you get a new pump.. this isnt to hard if you know what your doin and 2 people makes it easier to make ure its lined up perfection... good luck

[Ali]

Where's the best place to put the jack for the wheel? For other cars I usually put it near the wheels but the service manual was pretty specific that the jack should go to the middle of the sides or between the front wheels. When I replaced the brake pads I placed the jack in the center of the side of the car, which scared me a little bit as the entire side needed to be lifted pretty high in order for me to get the front wheel off. I want to make sure this is correct and see if I'm just being paranoid.

[nubira88]

u should be safe to put it near the wheel where the gaurd sort of meets the door.. i do hasnt damaged anything

[nubira88]

In regards to your wett spark plug.. the valve cover gasket may be the source of the prob if its in where you put in in if its in the internal part it may be a valve stem seal this will be evident with a puff of smoke on start up or you may have a leaking injector.... good buy by the way nubiras are awesome little cars that are tops on fuel..... go nubira style haha

[Daniel]

Welcome Ali,
Safety first. Never go under any part of a car that sits on a jack. Use jack stands.

For side lifting I prefer a floor jack equiped with a piece of wood having a slit in it. This way you avoid torsional effort and lip dammage on chassis. Some cars with glass ceiling must be center lifted even for wheel exchange.
Look at my jack stand and floor jack .


You can even make your engine lift support for nothing .



Daniel

[broken]

Welcome Ali,
Safety first. Never go under any part of a car that sits on a jack. Use jack stands.

For side lifting I prefer a floor jack equiped with a piece of wood having a slit in it. This way you avoid torsional effort and lip dammage on chassis. Some cars with glass ceiling must be center lifted even for wheel exchange.
Look at my jack stand and floor jack .


You can even make your engine lift support for nothing .
Daniel

Smart thinking daniel, you can save your-self money and make doing things a little easier by thinking outside the box.

[Daniel]

Smart thinking daniel, you can save your-self money and make doing things a little easier by thinking outside the box.

Yeah, I'm so lazy that I've to think, sometime .

[Ali]

I just got it changed, along with pulleys and cam sensor (I was getting a trouble code about it). Started at around 7 PM (don't ask why, it was pretty stupid of me) and just finished at 2:02 AM. What I ended up doing was lifting the car at the side with the jack, then putting jackstands near both the front and rear wheels. I then took the jack, placed a soft piece of wood on it, a phone book on top and lifted the jack dead center of the oil pan. It was pretty simple, although I'm wondering how much of a pain it would be changing the serpentine belt with the right engine mount in the way. I was surprised that the engine kept the same orientation and didn't tilt down. I also learned how to use a torque wrench!

I drove it around a little bit and the only thing that's changed is it feels slightly rougher and the passenger door rattles. I'll bother with it later; spending 7 hours outside made me really really tired.

[Daniel]

Congrats,

If engine is rougher double check timing marks and tensioner.
Changing serpentine belt is a piece of cake with the magic tool . You can make your own with some electrical steel tubing and the 14mm half part of a s-wrench.







Enjoy,