My forenos never ending problems....help!

[kinkyllama]

Anyone know the leggy factory fuel injectors max whp?

I found a vacuum leak so I'll see how the car runs now; but I managed to hit 124+mph finally again and held it around a decent turn none the less. Only thing is I hit that in 5th and felt like I hit some sort of rev limiter or something. I'm not too sure as to what it was as I had music going and wasn't paying attention to my gauges since I was going around a corner. I know I was 5500+ RPM so the MPH was within 3-4 mph actual and I was around the peak in the power band. It sounded like I hit the rev limiter and the car stopped pulling completely. I figured I topped out 5th but as changing to 6th I got a peak of my RPMs and after checking 5th tops out at 137mph. What would it be like if I maxed out the injectors?

I got a video camera so next time I get a safe chance with my GF in the car I'll get a video. It only happened once so I'm not sure if it'll happen again. This is also the fastest I've gone since I've gotten the car running again, it had just rained on a cooler night so I'm not sure if I can hit that again. Hopefully fixing the vacuum leak gave me some power. If not I’m wiring up my piggy back in a few days, just need to find someone familiar with perfect power.

[kinkyllama]

Headlight switch is broken again, brand new one too. So how is this possible? It has got to be the wiring before the switch right? It's weird because it gets stiff too like it's mechanical as well as electrical

[kinkyllama]

Headlight switch is broken again, brand new one too. So how is this possible? It has got to be the wiring before the switch right? It's weird because it gets stiff too like it's mechanical as well as electrical

Well maybe it's not the switch...when I unplug the whole switch the highs/lows still won't come off. It's not the relay, so what is it?

Also can my starting issue be the ignition switch?

[PrecisionBoost]

How about a short in the wiring harness that involves the lights????

If its drawing large amounts of power through your switch it will get hot and start to be hard/crunch inside.

You might not be able to feel the heat on the exterior of the switch if it's in short bursts of high current.


It's like when you start to exceed the temperature/amperage of a wire.... first off the color of the wire changes slightly... then if you try to bend it... it will be stiff.... if you bend too far it will crack and you will see that the copper inside the wire is no longer individual strands... they've welded together in on solid piece and they've changed to this slightly pink color (or sometimes green or black depending on temperature/amperage and insulation type )

A high current short to ground may only occur as you drive the car.... perhaps one of the wires are pinched somewhere along the line and as the body flexes it will put more stress on the wire and cause a brief short.

This type of pinch short is really really hard to find (trust me... we do lots of installs at work.... we wire in our mobile darkrooms onto pick up trucks )

Anyways.... it's just a thought.... when you said it gets "stiff" that was my gut reaction... since the plastic will change and make smooth low friction surfaces into sticky brittle surfaces if there is too much heat/amperage at the connection inside the swich.

Unfortunatly the only decent way of finding a short like this (since it typically doesn't happen when the car is sitting still ) is to run a DC current clamp meter on individual wires and watch for large spikes in current levels.

DC clamp meters are usually $150+ so it's not exactly a cheap thing to get for testing wires.... but it sure is handy to track down issues with wiring..... most shops know very little about clamp style ammeters.... so most won't have one...... but you might get lucky.

[kinkyllama]

How about a short in the wiring harness that involves the lights????

If its drawing large amounts of power through your switch it will get hot and start to be hard/crunch inside.

You might not be able to feel the heat on the exterior of the switch if it's in short bursts of high current.


It's like when you start to exceed the temperature/amperage of a wire.... first off the color of the wire changes slightly... then if you try to bend it... it will be stiff.... if you bend too far it will crack and you will see that the copper inside the wire is no longer individual strands... they've welded together in on solid piece and they've changed to this slightly pink color (or sometimes green or black depending on temperature/amperage and insulation type )

A high current short to ground may only occur as you drive the car.... perhaps one of the wires are pinched somewhere along the line and as the body flexes it will put more stress on the wire and cause a brief short.

This type of pinch short is really really hard to find (trust me... we do lots of installs at work.... we wire in our mobile darkrooms onto pick up trucks )

Anyways.... it's just a thought.... when you said it gets "stiff" that was my gut reaction... since the plastic will change and make smooth low friction surfaces into sticky brittle surfaces if there is too much heat/amperage at the connection inside the swich.

Unfortunatly the only decent way of finding a short like this (since it typically doesn't happen when the car is sitting still ) is to run a DC current clamp meter on individual wires and watch for large spikes in current levels.

DC clamp meters are usually $150+ so it's not exactly a cheap thing to get for testing wires.... but it sure is handy to track down issues with wiring..... most shops know very little about clamp style ammeters.... so most won't have one...... but you might get lucky.

Well lets see.... I had 55watt bulbs in the first year, then 100watt bulbs in the second year, and now I have four 35w HIDs. I don't think 140 watts over the 110 from factory would make a big enough difference but don't HIDs use allot more wattage when they fire up?

I know with my old switch when it broke it was getting pretty hot but I don't recall it doing that before it broke. Unfortunately the new switch already broke too so I can’t say for sure.

Thanks for the input Chris.

The shop hasn’t been able to get much done because the guy doing my car got into an accident. They did find out my battery is totally dead again and (confirmed) that the problem with the cooling fans is they’re not getting the signal to turn on. The service manual didn’t give me much help, what sensors tell the cooling fans to turn on and where are they? And with the fans turning on when bypassing the relay then why don’t they turn on when the A/C is turned on? I’ve switched the relay around with relays from other working things with the same results. Although now my A/C doesn’t seam to be working so I’m not sure if it would turn the fans on now or not.

*edit* Getting the battery replaced under warranty and replacing the starter early this week. Also need to replace the serpentine belt as it's in desperate need of replacement...maybe my alternator is slipping?

[kinkyllama]

Alrighty! Got a kill switch in, just need to hook up my stereo through it and rewire my alarm past it. We also got a switch to put the cooling fans on high since we never could figure that out. I replaced the starter and have only had a little problem starting it two times out of about 15-20. New issue which wasn't like anything before is the car dies sometimes when pushing in the clutch and putting it in neutral... I don't understand what could cause this. It almost always starts back up. Also after being shut off sometimes it stalls or I have to rev it for a bit so it doesn't stall.

It seams to be making more power as well, but maybe not what it should be. I topped it out just under 125 in 6th and 122 in 5th. Also held some decently uphill hard corners at 118mph in 5th. I'll have to get a video actually.

I'm going to hook up my wideband now providing my car cooled down enough. It seams to burn rich sometimes when I rev it hard in neutral or when doing some other random high rev things. On the way home tonight cruising 122mph in 5th gear which is probably 5850-6k rpm it cut off, rev'd very high as if in neutral and the shifter felt like it maybe hard to shift. I put it into 6th and it went hard and put it back down to 5th and cruised 118-122 for about 5 mins without it happening again. This happened once before and almost caused me to spin out at ~112.

I'm thinking about in the near future, probably after I get my lanos running and fix all the body damage on my foreno I might put the U20SED with ARP bolts in the lanos along with the F28. I'm thinking the lanos is already going to be least street able with no AC, maybe no PS, dropped to hell, and incredibly stiff motor/tranny mounts. Plus a 300whp lanos would be much faster. Along with I want my lanos to have the LSD and don''t want to buy another one or spend the time putting it into the D20. If I can get my hands on a cheap suitable S/C I'd like to put that in the forenza...since it would probably be easier to reach 300whp with turbo of s/c. I'll probably attempt 315whp or something too.