Hi,
rear shoes were re-placed 6weeks ago, car seems to drag at the moment, and back wheels lock under braking and feels like ABS is on all the time, garage reckon i have to have them re-adjusted every 3 months? They are saying the there is no ABS on back but the sensor is on the back underneath. Is this right or they done something wrong?
Rear Shoe Problem on Lanos 1.3
Moderators: daewoomofo, Moderators Group
Re: Rear Shoe Problem on Lanos 1.3
Hi,
As I believe you've rear drum brakes they are self-adjusting on Lanos. Did you replaced wheel cylinders as well? BTW there is one ABS sensor per wheel.
As I believe you've rear drum brakes they are self-adjusting on Lanos. Did you replaced wheel cylinders as well? BTW there is one ABS sensor per wheel.
Re: Rear Shoe Problem on Lanos 1.3
thanks thats a great help...... We did think it was a bit un-usual for a car not to have self- adjusters now, no never did the cylinders they never mentioned them, the reason i asked about the ABS is passenger rear wheel locks when the ABS is activated. Just shows you can't trust any garage.
Re: Rear Shoe Problem on Lanos 1.3
As far as I know front wheels have their dedicated ABS circuit but rear wheels have one common ABS circuit. Wait for advices from more experienced ppl but I think that the rear wheel problem is not ABS related.
Re: Rear Shoe Problem on Lanos 1.3
Thanks for that. Will be on the phone to the garage first thing this morning, as this needs sorting a.s.a.p
Re: Rear Shoe Problem on Lanos 1.3
!
I just see that the Lanos has been equipped with two ABS systems. Former simultaneously controlling the rear wheels and the new controlling the rear wheels separately. In the latter case this contradicts what I wrote about premature blocking wheel and "might" then come from the ABS system.
Sorry if I misguided research.
"Old" ABS module "New" ABS module (illustration, not Daewoo) What kind of ABS block do you have?
I just see that the Lanos has been equipped with two ABS systems. Former simultaneously controlling the rear wheels and the new controlling the rear wheels separately. In the latter case this contradicts what I wrote about premature blocking wheel and "might" then come from the ABS system.
Sorry if I misguided research.
"Old" ABS module "New" ABS module (illustration, not Daewoo) What kind of ABS block do you have?
Re: Rear Shoe Problem on Lanos 1.3
Hi daniel,
spoke to the garage today they have aggreed to re-adjust the rear brakes 'for free! after dad got on the phone to them' but since the call to the garage my trusted mechanic came round to put me a new clutch slave cylinder, he took the car on a test run. When he came back he said the problem is mainly possably coming from the clutch that is constatnly engaged with no movement on the top of the pedal which is where the bite is. He thinks there is another problem that is causing the car to drag because of lack of power because of either a HT lead is not working properly or there is a fault on the coil pack. Oh and he said once that lot has been checked he will check the ABS again as he thinks it may be the rings in the ABS may be split, he said it's not dangerous as the brakes are working. And the bottom picture looks more like my engine bay.
spoke to the garage today they have aggreed to re-adjust the rear brakes 'for free! after dad got on the phone to them' but since the call to the garage my trusted mechanic came round to put me a new clutch slave cylinder, he took the car on a test run. When he came back he said the problem is mainly possably coming from the clutch that is constatnly engaged with no movement on the top of the pedal which is where the bite is. He thinks there is another problem that is causing the car to drag because of lack of power because of either a HT lead is not working properly or there is a fault on the coil pack. Oh and he said once that lot has been checked he will check the ABS again as he thinks it may be the rings in the ABS may be split, he said it's not dangerous as the brakes are working. And the bottom picture looks more like my engine bay.
Re: Rear Shoe Problem on Lanos 1.3
Clutch:
-When pressing on clutch pedal with your hand the "free" travel before feeling some resistance should be between 6 and 12mm. If not adjust pushrod at clevis.
-Check full pedal travel from rest position to floored. If less than 130mm adjust the bolt that hits the rubber stopper.
-The point where clutch engage/disengage should be more than 30mm from floored. If not check pedal height, pedal play, air in system, clutch cover & disk.
Edit: BTW a common problem on daewoo clutch is a broken solder joint (circled red) on the release lever. Changing gear become more and more difficult. Drag/lack of power:
-no MIL ON?
-with a ohmmeter check electrical resistance of each HT leads. Should be less than 30kohms (30,000).
-while cranking check sparks of all four plugs in contact of metal surface (remove fuel pump relay or fuse first). Sparks should be strong blue/white. Warning, 20000+ volts here.
ABS:
-as the bottom pic describes your ABS block I hope there is no air inside the system since then it need the factory's tool to purge it.
-if we speek about rear ABS rings they are part of a complete non-serviceable hub and not visible from outside.
-a defective ABS system must throw a ABS warning light on dashboard.
-a defective ABS system is dangerous (IMHO) especially on rear axle as the brake force is no more modulated and you can block rear wheels, which is not fun.
-When pressing on clutch pedal with your hand the "free" travel before feeling some resistance should be between 6 and 12mm. If not adjust pushrod at clevis.
-Check full pedal travel from rest position to floored. If less than 130mm adjust the bolt that hits the rubber stopper.
-The point where clutch engage/disengage should be more than 30mm from floored. If not check pedal height, pedal play, air in system, clutch cover & disk.
Edit: BTW a common problem on daewoo clutch is a broken solder joint (circled red) on the release lever. Changing gear become more and more difficult. Drag/lack of power:
-no MIL ON?
-with a ohmmeter check electrical resistance of each HT leads. Should be less than 30kohms (30,000).
-while cranking check sparks of all four plugs in contact of metal surface (remove fuel pump relay or fuse first). Sparks should be strong blue/white. Warning, 20000+ volts here.
ABS:
-as the bottom pic describes your ABS block I hope there is no air inside the system since then it need the factory's tool to purge it.
-if we speek about rear ABS rings they are part of a complete non-serviceable hub and not visible from outside.
-a defective ABS system must throw a ABS warning light on dashboard.
-a defective ABS system is dangerous (IMHO) especially on rear axle as the brake force is no more modulated and you can block rear wheels, which is not fun.