c20get

greenbluewoo · Post by **greenbluewoo** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 2:12 am

ok my lanos has bin dead since july i found a good deal for a sunbird gt i was wondering if the transmission of the sunbird is cable or hydraulic if its cable is it easy to hook up and is the wiring hard to do and can i use the lanos drive shafts or the sunbirds and if i forget anything please tell me thank you

gse_turbo · Post by **gse_turbo** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 4:33 am

what's wrong with your trani? if nothing just use it.
garrett

gse_turbo · Post by **gse_turbo** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 4:35 am

if you interested iv'e got a build sunbird gt motor for sell in the classifieds i'm looking for $2000 but i'll intertain offers. i'll even bring it to you, if you're not to far away.
garrett

greenbluewoo · Post by **greenbluewoo** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 3:57 pm

gse_turbo

what's wrong with your trani? if nothing just use it.
garrett

nothings wrong with the trani, i just figured that the c20get trani is stronger than the lanos trani

gse_turbo

if you interested iv'e got a build sunbird gt motor for sell in the classifieds i'm looking for $2000 but i'll intertain offers. i'll even bring it to you, if you're not to far away.
garrett

i found the the whole car and i wanted the harness out of it and its only $500 with 74000 miles on it

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 4:28 pm

There is no chance in hell of using the Getrag 282 from the Sunbird... completely different mounting points.... completely different shift linkage.... it's cable driven as opposed to hydraulic and your driveshafts won't fit.

You absolutly must use the Lanos D16 tranny..... it should hold up to 200hp at the wheels (say 240hp at the crank).

To get 200whp out of the C20GET you would need to port the head, replace injectors (stock size will work fine...don't take a chance with used injectors ), install an intercooler, get stronger valve springs (to combat valve float) and run the engine at about 14psi of boost.

I would however suggest the idea of only running about 180whp ( roughly 225hp at crank ) because the turbo will be much happier at around 12psi (at 14psi it's getting out of it's "efficent" zone... many guys upgrade their stock T25 with a T28 compressor to make 15+ PSI )

At 180 whp you shouldn't have to worry about the tranny... and frankly.... unless you have a limited slip I doubt very much that you can put that to the ground.

Additionally at 180whp you shouldn't have to worry about valve springs.... although porting the head is probably a good idea.

Even if your running stock boost.... change the injectors and install an intercooler.

If you want a better tranny..... get the D20 from the Optra/Forenza/Optra5/Reno.... it has the identical outer case but the shafts and gears are stronger.

With the D20 you should be able to push 250whp..... after that.... it depends on a number of factors such as the type of tires you are using.

If you have sticky tires ( drag slicks, drag radials) you will grip better and end up damaging the tranny.... you might be able to get away with R compound... hard to say... I guess we will see in the spring when I have my bigger turbo and R-compound tires on my C20GET powered Lemans.\

I have spare transmissions.... so if I kill one or two... no big deal

gse_turbo · Post by **gse_turbo** » Tue Dec 12, 2006 2:21 am

chis knows his stuff!!! like i just use the stock trani.

$500's not a bad deal for for a fifteen + yaer old motor that hasn't been gone trough or rebuilt or upgraded that's still in the car.

think of the time and money in pulling and rebuilding and upgarding just to get where the motor i have is.

not to mention that i have the upgraded rocker arms that can't be found anymore. if you ask anyone, the rocker arms are the first thing to blow if you up the boost. and yes i have the wiring.

or you could just swap motor, do nothing and hope you're not in the same situation you're trying to get out on.
keep in mind that if you're anywhere near colorado, i'll bring it to you.

think about it and if you're interested, make an offer. and i do have the cometic MLS head gasket with it.
garrett

gse_turbo · Post by **gse_turbo** » Tue Dec 12, 2006 2:34 am

ok, well i just noticed that your in New Hampshire. 2100 miles is long enough both ways let alone one way but just for shits and grins i'll get a price to ship it so you can better weigh your options.
garrett

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Wed Dec 13, 2006 2:30 am

gse_turbo wrote: not to mention that i have the upgraded rocker arms that can't be found anymore. if you ask anyone, the rocker arms are the first thing to blow if you up the boost. and yes i have the wiring.

I have two C20GET engines so I spent lots of time on Jbody and Darmucks LT3 site gathering info....even talked with Ned Southwick (many guys know him)

Oh ya... forgot about the rocker arms.... Tom had a set of forged rocker arms in his setup.... we did all kinds of tests with the C20GET rocker arms, C20LZ rocker arms, and forged rocker arms.

We tested overall weight...compared weight within the set... compared dimensions with a micrometer... looked at the general casting.

I can't remember where the rocker arms become a problem.... given the age of the engine it would be wise to change them out... even if you just get stock ones.

I can get forged rocker arms from Germany.... about 12 EURO a piece.... perhaps I will get a few sets if I decide I need them.

gse_turbo · Post by **gse_turbo** » Wed Dec 13, 2006 3:48 am

from germany the set would run around $200+ shipping and time.
garrett

this was after 10 psi at high RPM

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Wed Dec 13, 2006 4:05 am

Cool.... you found the pics we took (we measured them at my shop)..... I didn't realize that he had posted them.

I was allways meaning to get him to send me those pics....now I don't have to.

I was trying to find out if it would be possible to have them made from Titanium..... the big issue is that Titanium doesn't stand up all that well to this type of mechanical action.... most Titanium valves have a special tip... either hardened material or coated with some type of "diamond like" coating. (can't remember the name right now)

I was wondering if it would work if the contact areas on the titanium were coated with a ceramic compount or one of these "diamond like" coatings.

I've found a few different places that sell Titanium valve spring hardware.... haven't got a price yet.... probably crazy expensive.

GsiTurbo · Post by **GsiTurbo** » Wed Dec 13, 2006 4:39 am

Wow... I was looking for these photos for ages, thinking I lost them

Nice to see you saved them somewhere

Just as a quick note, I did float the valve at very conservative 11-12psi, and about 7000rpm while overtaking this bmw on a highway that was doing about million miles/hr. I would 'recommend' uprating springs from day one.

gse_turbo · Post by **gse_turbo** » Sun Dec 17, 2006 2:16 am

glad to have them out there. i have all the emails you've writen from about 2000 up, if there's any other pics you may have misplaced let me know and i'll look back.

garrett

Post by **Efratech** » Sun Dec 17, 2006 6:10 am

gse_turbo wrote:from germany the set would run around $200+ shipping and time.
garrett

this was after 10 psi at high RPM

sorry but thats my old c20 8v

i broke them because i did a quick downshift almost at the limiter. broke 6 of 8 followers

MMamdouh · Post by **MMamdouh** » Sun Dec 17, 2006 8:13 am

i was wondering how can boost break followers... now it makes more since that the downshift caused that.

MMamdouh

gse_turbo · Post by **gse_turbo** » Thu Dec 21, 2006 2:03 am

over boosting and quick down shifting would have the same affect on the motor, rapid high RPM's. whoever the pic was taken by dosen't matter, it's here now and it shows what can happen to the stock followers in a C20GET or C20NE when maxed out.

garrett