X20xev valve seals bad??

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7-even
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X20xev valve seals bad??

Post by 7-even »

Hi everybody. I'm pretty sure some of the valve seals are leaking in my x20xev head. I'm Gettin smoke on startup and some at idle also oil slowly dissapeering, The oil isn't leaking. Now my question is this, what's the best way yo change the seals out? Does the head need to come off? I heard theres some kind of tool you can use so you done need to pull the head, any truth to this? Thanks for any help
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Re: X20xev valve seals bad??

Post by gse_turbo »

I had the tool at one point and it worked very well. I think I got it from Snap-on. I think the tool was around $150. Worth having and doing it this way for sure.
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7-even
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Re: X20xev valve seals bad??

Post by 7-even »

Any idea what the tool was called? I'd rather not have to pull the head if I don't have to
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Re: X20xev valve seals bad??

Post by gse_turbo »

I don't off hand. I think it was just a valve spring compressor, as underwhelming as that sounds.
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7-even
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Re: X20xev valve seals bad??

Post by 7-even »

Ah yes I know what that tool is called. But whats going to keep the valves from Falling into the block as I replace the seals? Won't there be nothing holding them in place?
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Re: X20xev valve seals bad??

Post by gse_turbo »

Good question. And there is a low-tech answer. You feel a length of nylon cord into the cylinder at about half way to top-dead-center. Then move the piston up as far as you can until it can't go any further. The valve will be locked in place.
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benzino
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Re: X20xev valve seals bad??

Post by benzino »

the other option is using compressed air. get a fitting that will screw into the spark plug hole and pressurise the cylinder and the valves won't drop
~2.0L Lanos~EHPAS~H&R Springs~KYB/GTS Shocks~
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woo99SE
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Re: X20xev valve seals bad??

Post by woo99SE »

you don't need a special tool unless you call a compression tester a special tool. I know it is but we rather not call it that way its more like a part of your tool box repertoir :D
any how just remove 1 spark plug at a time and have some air pressurized through the fitting just keep that piston TDC. it is not that easy since the car uses the camshaft to press against the lifter so you might need to remove timing belt in order to loosen up the camshaft.
remember that the camshaft is directly on top of the lifter which is right on top of the valve springs.
BUT you still can do it with out removing the head. not easy I must say BUT cheaper than visiting a mech. shop for sure...

IF your engine has rocker arms that is another story but far easier. no timing belt to remove.

I'm not familiar with these cars yet BTW.
1999 Lanos 1.6 DOHC Central Florida
7-even
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Re: X20xev valve seals bad??

Post by 7-even »

thanks guys
7-even
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Re: X20xev valve seals bad??

Post by 7-even »

gse_turbo i have the wonderful ticking from the lifters i believe, should i replace them or can they just be cleaned and working back to normal? im starting to think maybe i should just pull the head. replace the valve seals, supertec springs and retainers, lap the valves. i was trying to get the throttle bodies put on, having to do the head will definitely put that on hold (financially) but id rather have everything working right and reliable before moving on. what do you think?
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Re: X20xev valve seals bad??

Post by gse_turbo »

I have seen the lifter disassembled in the past but I don't remember seeing them go back together.

The problem with the lifters is that the oil port gets clogged and oil won't enter the lifter and pump up. The lifters should be able to be removed and cleaned in a hot-tank.
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Re: X20xev valve seals bad??

Post by 7-even »

is it best to replace them or is cleaning them ok? is there a fix for this problem?
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Re: X20xev valve seals bad??

Post by gse_turbo »

I would start by cleaning them for sure. The first thing I would do is do an engine flush and oil change. Make sure you are using 5/30 and always use that. If you are using conventional oil stay with it through this process. If you are using syn then stick with that. Once you've done the flush and change, drive about 1000 miles and do it all over again. Basically the point is to do it back to back before the oil starts to break down. After the second flush start using synthetic. And stay ahead of your oil changes. Use a wix filter.

If that doesn't fix the problem then I has a lot of extra lifter, I ca send you a set to be serviced. That way you won't be without your car for more than a day.
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