Lanos 2000 Cold Start Problems

[saadsaleem]

Hello everyone! My lanos was working perfectly fine until a few weeks ago when I noticed that if I take the car directly to the road without warming it up for 2 mins in the morning, it loses power completely.

This never happened before but I took it to the mechanic today and he thinks that lobe on the camshaft on one of the cylinders is getting almost flat and the whole camshaft needs to be changed which can cost me around 1700 AUD. He even said that this problem will get worse with time and I should either get rid of the car or fix it before the car is worthless.

I want your opinion as this is a huge amount of money to spend and I need to be sure that I am not spending on something that doesn't need fix. The car runs perfectly normal as before on the road and I don't have any other problem including any kind of noise or power loss (except for what I mentioned earlier).

[Daniel]

You may also suffer from sticking valve or valve pusher.
I would first try a oil change (best grade/brand) and italian tuneup

[saadsaleem]

You may also suffer from sticking valve or valve pusher.
I would first try a oil change (best grade/brand) and italian tuneup

Thanks Daniel for your reply. I did service the car, the car is not as bad as it was before the service but the problem is still there. Regarding Italian tuneup, how do you suggest me to do it? Maybe some seafoam engine cleaner?

[Daniel]

>
Thanks Daniel for your reply. I did service the car, the car is not as bad as it was before the service but the problem is still there. Regarding Italian tuneup, how do you suggest me to do it? Maybe some seafoam engine cleaner?

Italian tuneup is described in the link and that's what I do (even if it's not a Ferrari ) just before going for yearly MOT: fresh oil & filters, injector cleaner in fuel, high revs ride for some km in lower gear to stay in speed limitations and only when engine temperature is ok.

I never used "seafoam" because I'm unsure of the harmlessness for my engine. It seems that this must be done in a very accurate way from what I've read on our forum. So I'm a little afraid of doing it wrong.

Since you wrote that you feel a improvement of the problem after service I would try cheaper solution than replacing camshaft at 1700 AUD!

I found some time ago on the net an old method to detect a lot of engine problems with a simple vacuum gauge connected to the intake manifold. Perhaps a way to investigate?
Here are some links:
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm
http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Fuel ... /index.htm
More if you ask google for "INTAKE MANIFOLD VACUUM INTERPRETATION"

Hope it helps,

[benzino]

1700 for a cam change? Geez time to go to a different mechanic... Never even heard of a lobe being flattened ever!
Do you have a 1.5 or 1.6?

[saadsaleem]

Italian tuneup is described in the link and that's what I do (even if it's not a Ferrari ) just before going for yearly MOT: fresh oil & filters, injector cleaner in fuel, high revs ride for some km in lower gear to stay in speed limitations and only when engine temperature is ok.

I ran my car today for 6 kms on 2nd gear at 60 km/h on a flat road. I hope this is enough for the Italian tuneup. I shall see tomorrow morning if it makes any big difference.

Since you wrote that you feel a improvement of the problem after service I would try cheaper solution than replacing camshaft at 1700 AUD!

I found some time ago on the net an old method to detect a lot of engine problems with a simple vacuum gauge connected to the intake manifold. Perhaps a way to investigate?
Here are some links:
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm
http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Fuel ... /index.htm
More if you ask google for "INTAKE MANIFOLD VACUUM INTERPRETATION"

Hope it helps,

Thanks for the advice. Do you know any particular cheap online shop from where I can buy? What about this one?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Gunson-G4103 ... 500wt_1156

1700 for a cam change? Geez time to go to a different mechanic... Never even heard of a lobe being flattened ever!
Do you have a 1.5 or 1.6?

I have 1.5 . I have read on other forums that oil starvation of camshafts in Daewoo Lanos is common.

[Daniel]

Italian tuneup is described in the link and that's what I do (even if it's not a Ferrari ) just before going for yearly MOT: fresh oil & filters, injector cleaner in fuel, high revs ride for some km in lower gear to stay in speed limitations and only when engine temperature is ok.

I ran my car today for 6 kms on 2nd gear at 60 km/h on a flat road. I hope this is enough for the Italian tuneup. I shall see tomorrow morning if it makes any big difference.

Since you wrote that you feel a improvement of the problem after service I would try cheaper solution than replacing camshaft at 1700 AUD!

I found some time ago on the net an old method to detect a lot of engine problems with a simple vacuum gauge connected to the intake manifold. Perhaps a way to investigate?
Here are some links:
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm
http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Fuel ... /index.htm
More if you ask google for "INTAKE MANIFOLD VACUUM INTERPRETATION"

Hope it helps,

Thanks for the advice. Do you know any particular cheap online shop from where I can buy? What about this one?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Gunson-G4103 ... 500wt_1156

Unfortunately, access to this particular item has been blocked due to legal restrictions in some countries. We are blocking your viewing in an effort to prevent restricted items from being displayed. Regrettably, in some cases, we may prevent users from accessing items that are not within the scope of said restrictions because of limitations of existing technology. Please accept our apologies for any inconvenience this may cause, and we hope you may find other items of interest on eBay.

1700 for a cam change? Geez time to go to a different mechanic... Never even heard of a lobe being flattened ever!
Do you have a 1.5 or 1.6?

I have 1.5 . I have read on other forums that oil starvation of camshafts in Daewoo Lanos is common.

[saadsaleem]

I would first try a oil change (best grade/brand) and italian tuneup

I feel like the problem is 70% solved by Oil change and Italian tuneup. However, I am now left with slightly higher idle engine speed. Any clues why engine is doing that? I also reset ICV (Idle control value) but it didn't help.

[Daniel]

Lazy IAC vave? Try a shot of penetrating oil on it's shaft.
Vaccum leak?

What is the value for "slightly higher idle engine speed"?

Tell us position of IAC pintle after the following procedure:
-remove IAC connector when idle is "slightly higher". Confirm idle speed has not changed.
-stop engine.
-disconnect battery.
-remove IAC, not loosing Oring.
-check distance from flange to tip of pintle. Should be close to 28mm.

P1040508-1.JPG

Redo idle learn procedure.

[saadsaleem]

What is the value for "slightly higher idle engine speed"?

Unfortunately, I don't have exact values. It is not extremely high but definitely higher than normal.

Tell us position of IAC pintle after the following procedure:
-remove IAC connector when idle is "slightly higher". Confirm idle speed has not changed.

The speed didn't change after removing IAC connector.

-check distance from flange to tip of pintle. Should be close to 28mm.

No, in my case, it was around 3.4mm. Just one more question, does it matter that how much is the distance when I re-install IAC?

[Daniel]

>
>

-check distance from flange to tip of pintle. Should be close to 28mm.

No, in my case, it was around 3.4mm. Just one more question, does it matter that how much is the distance when I re-install IAC?

Do you mean 3.4cm? Because 3.4mm is just impossible.
If 34mm (3.4cm) the IAC is probably in full closed position and engine should die.

As it doesn't there is maybe a vacuum leak somewhere:
Intake manifold gasket, vacuum hoses, servo brake, MAP sensor,...

When re-installing IAC gently set the pintle at 28mm as shown on pic. Do not use brute force.
Then perform the full idle learn procedure after battery is reconnected.

[saadsaleem]

Do you mean 3.4cm?
If 34mm (3.4cm) the IAC is probably in full closed position and engine should die.

As it doesn't there is maybe a vacuum leak somewhere:
Intake manifold gasket, vacuum hoses, servo brake, MAP sensor,...

When re-installing IAC gently set the pintle at 28mm as shown on pic. Do not use brute force.
Then perform the full idle learn procedure after battery is reconnected.

Yes, it is 3.4cm I have tried again after setting 2.8cm but the idle is still high. I have ordered a bluetooth OBDII reader from eBay to know the exact value of Engine rpm.

I have had this problem for sometime that when the car stops on a signal, the check engine light turns on. It turns off when I start driving the car. The mechanic told me that the error code is for IAC valve and he told me that this bad boy will stay. So I am a bit sad that nothing can be done to resolve this issue.

[Daniel]

Check with a digital voltmeter (less than 15AUD) the throttle posistion sensor signal for less than 1v @ idle and more than 4v @ WOT.

[saadsaleem]

Check with a digital voltmeter (less than 15AUD) the throttle posistion sensor signal for less than 1v @ idle and more than 4v @ WOT.

There are three wires:
@idle
black & light blue: 5 volts
black & blue: 0.7 volts
light blue & blue: 4.1 volts

@WOT
black & light blue: 5 volts
black & blue: 4.4 volts
light blue & blue: 0.6 volts

[Daniel]

We don't have the same wiring colours but there is at least one value (supposed to be ground = 0v) very strange. Only wiper signal is supposed to change between idle & WOT. Where was you neg probe connected?

Negative probe must be connected to the place of black wire on my connector.
But there should be no significant difference if neg probe is placed on minus battery but it's not recommended for measurement accuracy.
Of course measurements done with connector in place!

P1040331-1 (371 x 400).jpg