Rebuilding the T20/U20 engine block

[blue4renza]

I want use the C20 8 valve Sunbird 2.0 turbo crankshaft cause it is lighter than the T20/U20 and use brand new performance main and rod bearings, C20 or T20/U20 refurbished rods, arp rod-bolts, X20XEV 11:1 comp pistons and brand new performance piston rings, Arp main-bolts. If anyone has suggestions let me know what they are i want a really stiff engine block thanks.

[daewooluvr]

I want use the C20 8 valve Sunbird 2.0 turbo crankshaft cause it is lighter than the T20/U20 and use brand new performance main and rod bearings, C20 or T20/U20 refurbished rods, arp rod-bolts, X20XEV 11:1 comp pistons and brand new performance piston rings, Arp main-bolts. If anyone has suggestions let me know what they are i want a really stiff engine block thanks.

Post lots of pics

[blue4renza]

This is just a start and I am going to do the rebuild in 2012 U20sed forenza engine 170 horses high compression motor N/A

[gse_turbo]

seems like you have a pretty good understanding uf the compatablility, te list looks good. However, i would suggest using the C20Xe/LET rods and they are stronget and they use a floating wrist pin whih will work great with aftermakter forged pistons.
if you plan to use standard X20XEV pistons than you have to use the C20GET, T20/U20/X20XE/LET rods as they are pressed wrist pins. the C20XE/LET rods will not work.
in either case I have ARP hi-perf and pro series bolts for both.

you don't have to use just the turbo sunbird crank as all the 2.0 8v motors in the States from the period are the same crank.

since you are putting the motor in the Forenza, make sure you use a Forenza or Nubira block. although the 8v and later 16v are basically the same, the bolt holes on the front of the block for the engine bracket are different sized and the 8v blocks are not suggested.
just for a heads up, I'm the only place that offers ARP main studs for the later 16v motors. the early 16v main studs are different and won't work.

I'm sure you know that I have a lot of this stuff ready to ship. even the C20XE/LET rods. let me know if you are interested in any things.

two more suggestions I always make are 1) lightening the stock fluwheel and 2) adding a main support girdle to the late model 16v block.

cheers,
Garrett

[blue4renza]

Do you have any of the main supports and how much do they cost

[gse_turbo]

I do, here's a quote form the Holland Sport section if you haven't seen it.

Our Main Cap Support is available for the the 1.8/2.0/2.2 "Bid Block" motors.

The price listed on daftart.com, $95.00 for support alone, will have to be updated to include the price of the hardware, $13.00 for 10.9 grade bolts and washers.

[gse_turbo]

this one is shown on a T22, the T20 will have less bolts ouside of the main caps.

this is also shown the ARP main studs

[blue4renza]

Do i have to use the arp main studs and the main support for a motor making like 170 horses that is my goal for my forenza is 11:1 compression fine for that plus does the main support work on the automatic transmission engine block

[gse_turbo]

you wont need either for 170whp

[blue4renza]

should i used arp rod bolts and better performance main/rod bearings and C20GET rods

[gse_turbo]

I do suggest using ARP rod bolts and upgraded bearings.

as for the ronnecting rods. the C20GET rods are no stronger than any of the 8v rods of the time OR the 16v D-Tech/Iron Ecotec rods used now.

you're just as well off using the rods you have.

[blue4renza]

Then it is arp rod bolts stock U20sed rods and upgraded main and rod bearings and the 8V crankshaft anything else suggested

[gse_turbo]

that seems like a pretty solid setup for what you are looking to do.

I may suggest having the flywheel lightened if it's in the budget as well. or, compare the price of an aftermarket aluminum flywheel. so much material can be taken off the standard Forenza flywheel that it can get expensive. I spent around $300 to have my 1.6 flywheel done. an aluminum flywheel was not available for the 1.6 so I went with it. a fidanza flywheel may not cost much more than what I spent to have mine lightened.

[PrecisionBoost]

I assume that when you install a C20GET crank you will loose the 60-2 reluctor wheel.

What have you planned for an engine management system?

If you get rid of the reluctor whee you will have to install a head that uses a distributor ( import C20XE or C20LET head ) or you will have to add an external trigger wheel.

If you allready have a T20SED, I can't understand your thought process on wasting money on buying a different crank, you will see little gains, if you really want a high RPM engine you have to go with an aftermarket crank ( SBD or that german company I put in the supplier links which makes kits for 10,000RPM redline ).

The T20SED crank will manage 600+ horsepower and atleast 7000RPM, perhaps even 8000RPM based upon the opinion of a professional race engine builder.


On the other hand, if you already have the C20GET block, I would use that over the T20SED block.

For stiffening the bottom end of the block you have three options, buy Garrett's block girdle, use a factory T22SED girdle or fill a small portion of the lower block with "HardBlok"

Unless your planning more than 300whp those items will simply make your wallet lighter and your block heavier.


Just scanning quickly through the post there was a mention of 170hp, I don't know if this is your initial goal or just a starting point but it should be very easy to hit this mark with only minor alterations to the engine.

Personally I would be less concerned with the engine internals and more concerned about the intake, exhaust, engine management and cams.

That is to say you should be able to take a completely stock T20SED, drop in some high comp pistons and tune the car for 170hp without many issues.

The primary issue will be the engine tuning, I would personally spend 70% of my money on a good aftermarket system, with the right fuel and tuning you should be able to surpass 170hp without much problem.

Consider that the factory C20XE had 150hp stock, with minor additions they were making significant gains.


By comparison, SBD made 292hp and 197lb ft from their 2.0L Vauxhall engine, which required significant modifications to bump the redline to 9000 RPM

http://www.sbdev.co.uk/Taper%20Kits/New ... pgrade.htm


Sorry I haven't been much help earlier, I rarely get a chance to read posts these days, most of the time I am quickly rifling through posts for spam and only post if something catches my eye.

[blue4renza]

I have the U20SED engine it is standard in the forenza/reno i wanna make more power would 11:1 pistons and ported and polished top end and header and intake and 2.25 exhaust and higher lift cams and crank pulley help to bring more power out of the motor for around 150-170 horses