2.0 T20SED/U20SED underdrive pulley

[gse_turbo]

one thing I've been considereing lately is basically just building the one turbo header and then have a mid section with I high flow cat that ties into the factory exhaust. it would prettty much be the same type of "shorty" headers that have always been used in muscle cars.

as for the 10.5:1-10.8:1 pistons, that's not a very big increase over stock maybe not even 1.0:1. all the stock parts should handle that fine. I'm not sure that small of an increase is worth the work that will be involved to do it.

[blue4renza]

I found a High performance Engine rebuild kit from ImportPerformancepart.net for the X20XEV engine, Would i have to put a turbo to get at least 150-170 horses from the motor

[gse_turbo]

no, the engine alone should be able to make upwards of 200hp with 11.0:1 pistons and a good tune. the tune is the most important part.

[blue4renza]

What do u mean tune do i have to change the computer system to stand alone type, Im confused with tuning stuff, how much would the header be if u make it for me. Thanks for all this help

[gse_turbo]

any car on the road could likely benefit from being tuned for a little more power. the manufacturers most often use a dumbed down version of the engine management to achieve long life in all driving conditions.

for the most part, piggy-back controllers work very well for mild tunes. done right, they can even be functional in high performance applications as well.

a stand-alone would be overkill for what you want to do. you just need something that can affect the injectors and add or take away fuel as you need it. unfortunately, there aren't any ways to accurately ADVANCE ignition timing (typical for N/A builds) with a piggy back, only RETARD timing (for turbo use).

an appropriate header, adjustable intake cam gear, higher compression pistons and a piggy-back should be able to get you about 175hp.


as for the header. It would really come down to the style of the header. the two way I've been planning are as fallow...
1) make a typical turbo header like the one I was selling and make a cat-con the would go run back to the factory exhaust.

That would basically just take the place of the factory manifold and up-stream cat. the upside is that cost might be a bit lower since I'd only be making one type of header. And, if the owner ever wanted to go turbo after that, the header is already there.

it's a very simple set up and no changes to the O2 sensor wires would be needed.

2) making a mid-length 4-1 header that replaces the manifold and cat. It would bolt to the flange where the factory up-stream cat ties into the factory exhaust.

this is a more traditional Naturally Aspirated design. But, the down-stream cat becomes the up-stream cat. That means longer O2 sensor wires need to be ran and they HAVE TOO be protected from the heat. trust me, I melted connectors on my original 4-2-1 header before heat wrapping them.


I think both options are great, I really can't see the upsides of one being greater than another but I am leaning more toward the first option. I think it will be great. however, I am just hung up by the idea of having a blocked off wastegate flange on an N/A header. it just means like it would look like an after thought instead of the intended use. then again, perhaps the O2 sensor could go there to make it look more planned.

[blue4renza]

If i get the header that would replace the manifold and the first cat could i use the oem brand new gaskets and also use the original oxygen sensor, i have been looking to see how much 11:1 compression pistons and only can find 10.8:1 compression pistons would that be okay to use, also is you main bearing support for the T20/U20 better than just using Arp main-studs.

[gse_turbo]

I have a plan now. a new design of the header. I'm also buying a simulation program that that's designed to develop headers and test them before actually building them. I'll try to get that all sorted out very soon. I think the new design is great. it' incorporates a 4-1 header and high flow metal-core cat in place of the standard manifold and cat. this way it is a direct bolt-on and the O2 sensors don't have to be modified.
I'll do a simulation of all the different header designs that I've done in the past compared to this new setup to see how it performs.

10.8:1 wouldn't be far off from 11.0:1 if the price is really good. I offer complete custom piston sets for $650.00 at whatever compression ratio that you could want. you can have 12.0:1's if you want.

as for the main support, typically I suggest using ARP main studs with it. the problem that happens with in-line engines is that they twist when they are under load and have a considerable amount of power. and, even though some machinist would tell you that an in-line engine doesn't need balanced they still produce a considerable amount of vibration/harmonics.
they main support offers a solution for both problems.

[gse_turbo]

to build the full stainless header with the high performance cat, the would be 435.86. Mild steel would be a little less, pehaps the mid 300's, I didn't price the materials tho.

[blue4renza]

I want the header with out cat like the one that kinky motorsports had, I have a picture of the header design but idk how to send a photo here, do u have yahoo email, I also found used X20XEV higher lift cams for the T20/U20 motors. I i put 12.0:1 compression would it still pass emissions and get good gas mileage.

[gse_turbo]

I strongly suggest NOT to use a header like the onke Kinky was having made. that's just a bad design. at the very least, a 4-2-1 header on a in-line four needs to be 1&4/2&3 not 1&2/3&4.

a 4-2-1 is more for high RPM's and race applications that wont see low RPM's very often. 4-1 header is the better option for a low reving in-line four.

as i side not, if you don't use a cat you will lose power and you for sure won't pass emissions. using the down-stream cat alone put's it too far away and it wont work as well.

your gas mileage shouldn't change, if anything, it should get better.you'll have to add a little fuel but the engine wont be working as hard. slightly bigger injectors, fuel pressure regulator and MAYBE a higher flowing fuel pump would to the trick.

emissions I'm not sure of, I live in a city that doesn't require emissions testing so i've never delt with the issue.

[blue4renza]

how much would the 4-1 header be in mild steel,I want to get it ceramic coated for lower engine bay heat, Are you gonna be making cold air intakes too, for emissions iam in a area that doesn't do emissions, as in fuel where could i get the thin type injectors and i found a high output fuel pump on ebay.

[gse_turbo]

I sell new RC Injectors, I'd have to figure out what injectors you would need and get pricing. I think they are typically around $85.00 each. it sounds like a lot to some people but you're getting brand new high performance injectors in the exact body style you need that are test and have a waranty.

another option is trying to find out what you can use from another vehicle and trying to find a used set on ebay.

I'll price out the parts for a mild steel header as soon as I can. in either case, eliminating the cat from the header would drop the price about $85.00.

I still want to get that software in and run some simulation. the cool thing is that I can test a couple designs at one compression ratio and then test them at a higher compression ratio to see the changes.

I wish I had done this a few years ago because I built a header for my 1.6. it was a 4-2-1, 1.625" primaries and 2.00"secondaries, 2.50" collector. it turned out to be way to big and it felt slow at the low end. that kind of header needed high compression pistons, cams and ITB's to run right.

[gse_turbo]

Fully mild steel header MIG welded with no cat would be $300.00

Fully stainless header TIG welded with no cat would be $450.00

[blue4renza]

How much power would the under drive pulley and the mild steel header with out cat and a cold air intake make roughly, my plans are to redo the motor next year. That is why iam getting all the info now for i know what i can do with the motor and where i could get the parts

[blue4renza]

How much is the 4-1 type mild steel and stainless steel header with high flow cat in with the header as one whole piece. I need the collector (Flange) to be 2.5 inch, Iam planning on making a custom 2.5 high flow exhaust from the header back includes 2.5 inch high flow spun cat and without the resonator and a high flow muffler at the end (import type)